| |
Modification with Electric
Lights
by Robert Alescio
Brief review
In a review that can be read on the D4C, I had both praise for the service
station and suggestions for improvement. Certainly, on the plus side,
is the obvious fact that your die-casts can now be displayed in a realistic
setting rather than just sitting on a glass shelf. Thus, it lends some
welcome life to the cars. Out of the safety of their display case,
cars are vulnerable to dust and other nasty bits, so a cover that encompasses
the whole of the structure would be in order. I put that off for now
to instead tackle another perceived want.
Need for lights
Although both the outside and inside of the Sinclair Service Station
are painted white, one might employ a flashlight to see the cleverly
decorated interior. Not wanting to leave it at that, I was compelled
to illuminate the station in a simple and effective manner. Not knowing
anything about dollhouses other than their relative size and vast array
of accessories available, I set out to see what I could utilize. Only
a brief search on the Internet turned up numerous possibilities. I
settled on was Cir-Kit Concepts (http://www.cir-kitconcepts.com/) who
offers a complete line of miniature lights, light fixtures, wiring
kits, and materials.
Having never performed this kind of work before, I had to make the best
guess of just which items to order. Looking over what was available,
and considering how I wanted to light the station, I settled on what
I hoped would suite my needs. I would employ four ceiling mounted lights.
The temptation to get fancy fixtures was tempered by the realization
that this is a gas station after all; thus, bare bulbs.
Materials
(See complete list below)
The lights are frosted bulbs that mount in a porcelain base. (Fig. 3)
I felt the frosted (vs. clear) would diffuse the light better. These
are 12-volt systems, so a transformer is also required. Fortunately,
Cir-Kit Concepts has a choice of starter kits (Fig. 1 & 2) that include
everything I needed to complete the wiring, from wall plug to lit bulb.
Two-conductor tapewire is included and offers a clean, unobtrusive method
of running current to the lights. This presented both solutions and challenges
in the construction phase. I also ordered a spot light for an idea I
am saving for the future. Added to these materials are a sheet of thin
balsa wood and some suitable white paint.
Construction
What makes this project possible is a roof section that just sets into
place. Had the roof been permanently attached, I would not have even
attempted this. Equally important, nothing of the original gets modified,
thereby maintaining its integrity and resale value.
- Using the roof as a template, trace out two copies on the balsa.
This method sandwiches the wiring between the wood hiding it from view.
- Both pieces of wood are then sanded to fit easily into the building
without being too snug. They are identical except for a notch in the
back of the lower one. The location of the lights is chosen to most uniformly
illuminate the interior, remain out of direct line of sight, while still
being positioned logically.
- Read and reread the relevant sections of
the supplied Tapewire Instruction Book.
- As shown in Fig. 5, one
taperun starts at the rear, runs forward, and then intersects the
lateral taperun. It is the position of the lateral piece that first
has to be determined.
- Working with what will be the lower section
of wood, measure, then mark the light locations. These are 1 1/2” from
the front edge and approximately 1/3 and 2/3 out from the center-dividing
wall. This fulfills the need for uniform, hidden light.
- After contemplating
connecting the tapewire to the transformer lead-in wire, I decided
to make the junction splice (Fig. 7) appear to be an unobtrusive
ceiling fixture. By mounting this forward slightly, the wire to the
transformer can drop straight down rather than protrude unnecessarily.
- Cut
a 1” x 5/8” notch at the rear of the same piece of
balsa. This is aligned with the notch in the back wall of the office.
- Drill
four 1/8” holes for the light pigtails to pass through.
Test fit each bulb and porcelain base to insure flush fit with ceiling.
- Draw
a line across the wood through the holes almost to the outer edges
of the wood. These will aide the alignment of the tapewire.
- Sand
the wood smooth, clean, and paint the bottom of the lower and the
top of the upper pieces of balsa.
- The lateral tapewire is laid down
first. Cut a strip at least 1 inch longer than the two farthest holes.
Using the pencil mark as a centerline, press the adhesive-backed
tape into place. The pre-drilled holes will be in line with the non-conductive
center of the tapewire. Open holes through the tape center where
the balsa was drilled.
- Measure, cut, and apply the second tapewire
perpendicular to the lateral strip. This strip will wrap around the
previously cut notch and extend forward again about an inch. This
underside is where the junction splice will be located. Complete the
connection of the two tapes by inserting the supplied brass brads.
(Fig. 6) Confirm the conductivity with the supplied tester or an ohmmeter.
Install the junction splice and test again.
- Install the lights.
(Fig. 4) First, the pigtails will have to be shortened and the ends
striped of insulation. Follow the instruction dealing with light
connections in the booklet that accompanies the starter kit. Holding
the lights firmly against the balsa, bend the wires over and secure
with any good tape. This is to insure against slack in the wires that
would allow the lights to droop at an angle. (Mine are tied, not taped.
Perhaps both methods together are best.)
Finish
All that remains is to plug the transformer lead-in wire to the junction
splice and install the new ceiling and roof sections. (Fig. 8) Plug
the transformer in to an outlet, and you are done.
Results
The effect is quite pleasing, as now the station interior really comes
alive. All of the furniture, fixtures, accessories, tools, posters,
and signs are showcased, whereas before, they were mere background.
Place a couple of cars or trucks in the scene and you are one step
closer to reality. |
